Not all hulls have the same scattering of bubbles, just as their size varies and the depth of the fibreglass layers. If you find yourself in front of a hull where the osmosis spots are in the first stages and are of a size (once the “craters” are cleaned and opened out) not larger than a shirt button and with a “button radius” depth, the application of a suitable “ready to use” filler like our C-Epoxy fast FINE Filler, perfectly meets the requirement and we can be sure that over and above the anti-osmosis protection characteristic of our product, we have also an analogous structural resistance. Making the example that many of these “decays” have the size of a good “olive” or a “walnut”, also if the depth is less than the “previous button”, or, have even become the size of a mandarin, or even if they are small like in the first case but in some areas of the layer they are so close that “cleaning out” means them nearly touching, resulting in a much bigger “decay”.
The question we can put is this: do we always have to fill and level with filler? It is simply better to accommodate and try to achieve higher targets. The use of C-systems’ 10 10 CFS with mineral Microfibre additive (minute glass balls) in the measure of around 50% to70% in weight, forms a pasty, fibrous, dense resin to stay-put even on vertical surfaces, reinforced, multi-directional. More than just filling the cavities, it becomes an active interacting part with the layer and in many cases with a better form than the material taken away. If the there are a lot of much bigger spots with a noticeable delamination, it may also be necessary to reapply glass cloth in order to not to compromise hull quality, but this possibility must be evaluated case by case.
The technical “mix” made with C-systems’ 10 10 CFS and mineral Microfibre is less easy to spread than filler; due to the fibres intertwined with each other that pull other fibres when put on the spatula and spread. It is recommended to apply a more abundant quantity of material to avoid possible empty spots and, when dry, with a sanding pad and paper, grade 60 to 80, sand down to give the right profile to the repair.
Now the hull of our boat has again all its mechanical integrity and will be “started-levelled” by the work made by us in order to eliminate the parts compromising the layering. It is important to note that as it is better to apply 3 thin coats rather than 2 almost sagging coats. Apply C-systems’ 10 10 CFS with a roller, it is extremely easy, fast, clean and not tiring. Not having sags saves the time need to sand down the dried drops. Two or three coats of NAUTILUS Epoxy Primer two before the antifouling is the right answer to have a perfectly uniform colour similar to the gelcoat, and also using the self-polishing antifouling, like Nautilus S.P., will not touch the transparency of the epoxy resin. NAUTILUS Epoxy Primer two doesn’t only have gripping characteristics on the previous coats but forms a structural union and has a notably higher resistance over traditional grip characteristics. The first antifouling coat follows between 8 hours and 30 days later. The second antifouling coat will be applied at least 48 hours before the launch. Time for the launch at least 7 to 8 days after the last coat of NAUTILUS Epoxy Primer two or C-systems’ 10 10 CFS.